Griffith Park Trails

by Patricia Lamkin
Photos by Patricia Lamkin
View of Griffith Observatory from Mount Hollywood.

The largest municipal park and urban wilderness area in the United States is right here in Los Angeles.

With gorgeous views, California oak trees, wild sage, and 53 miles of hiking trails over chaparral covered hills, Griffith Park is a little slice of paradise in the city of fallen angels.

To avoid the crowds, the ideal time to go is a weekday. But weekends are quite doable - early mornings probably are best for families. If you are a beginner hiker, or have small kids who are not quite ready for serious climbing, I suggest a 2.5 mile hike to Mt. Hollywood and a fantastic view of the Hollywood sign.

From Western, enter Griffith Park off Los Feliz Blvd, turning left at the first traffic light onto Ferndell Drive. Drive past the Ferndell picnic grove, and go straight up the curvy road until you get to a T stop. You'll see a small parking area in front of you just to your right. There is also parking on the street (which goes to the Observatory). To the right of the parking area you'll see a steep and wide gravel path. Take this path.

Some friends enjoying a tree on the Ferndell path.

You will come to a small bridge that goes over the park tunnel. When you get to the bridge, there is a crossroads of paths. If you go hard right here you'll head towards the Observatory and you guessed it - lots of people. Instead I suggest you go left over the bridge and stay left on the main trail. This is a wide fireroad/footpath that curves around the mountain and takes you on a leisurely hike up to Captain's Roost, a shaded picnic area with a drinking fountain. Continue up and you'll reach the summit, called Mt. Hollywood, a square scenic overlook with picnic tables, at an elevation of 1,626 feet.

A longer version of this hike (5 miles instead of 2.5) is currently blocked due to ongoing construction at the Griffith Observatory. The construction is due to finish some time in 2007, but it is best to call the Ranger Station before you go to check on the accesibility of this trail. For this hike, after turning onto Ferndell Drive, go north and park in the large parking lot on your left. From here cross the street and take a small foot-bridge over the dell. The trail is behind the playground slide. Hike north along this canyon trail. When the trail splits bear right and hike until you get to the road which goes to the Observatory. After passing through the Observatory grounds, the trail picks up to the right. You'll see a plaque in memory of George Harrison. Past this is a grove of trees dedicated to Berlin, Germany, which is Los Angeles' sister city. Continue on this path until you see the same bridge that goes over the park tunnel described earlier. Keep to the left up the main trail and on up to Mt. Hollywood.

If you see a coyote, keep a respectful distance. They are like the celebrities of the Park, skittish, but always a thrill to see. If they don't see you as a threat they will go about their business. However, creep in too close, and they will retreat off the path. You may want to bring binoculars for watching them at a distance. Rabbits and coyotes are active just before sunset, and there is nothing like the sound of coyotes singing to each other.

As for rattlesnakes, I was hiking Griffith for 5 years before I ever saw one. But keep an eye out. Again, keep a respectful distance and let them be. If you provoke them it is only in their nature to strike.

Once you reach the summit of Mt. Hollywood, just relax and take in the fantastic panoramic view. From here you can see Hollywood, Pasadena, Glendale and even as far as Santa Monica and Long Beach! If it's close to sunset, the city lights will come on like a magical electric grid, and the view is spectacular.

View from Mount Hollywood.

Oh, and if you're planning on bringing your cell phone, don't bother. Chances are you won't get a signal up here. It's as if these mountains are reminding you why you climbed them in the first place. Listen to the mountains. They'll talk to you, and they won't charge you for roaming.

For more hiking information, contact the Griffith Park Ranger Station at 323-913-4688.